FRONT BURNER: Butter-basted fish pleases picky eater

I don't cook nearly as much fish as I'd like. There are multiple reasons — my husband is a card-carrying beef lover for one — and so I often fall into a rut when I do cook fish.

"Foolproof Fish: Modern Recipes for Everyone, Everywhere" from America's Test Kitchen makes it easy to get and stay out of that rut with its nearly 200 recipes.

It didn't take long leafing through "Foolproof Fish" to find half a dozen or more recipes I wanted to try, including one or two Mr. Picky will enjoy.

One feature in the book I found to be especially helpful is a handy chart of 30 fish, a brief description of their flavors; whether they're usually sold fresh or frozen; whole or in filets; the best cooking method for each; and acceptable substitutions.